WE POUND THE STREETS... YOU REAP THE REWARDS!
THERE’S more to Dijon than its mustard. Home to France’s International City of Gastronomy and Wine – a 16-acre site devoted to eating and drinking with museums, workshops and tastings – Burgundy’s capital celebrates dining as a ritual art form. The city’s medieval streets, pictured, Gothic churches and proximity to the region’s famed vineyards offer plenty to savour over a long weekend. Hop on a morning train from London, change in Paris, and you’ll be sipping chablis by lunchtime.
Where to stay
■ Maison Philippe Le Bon
ROOMS in this charming hotel with 15th-century origins have exposed beams and period furniture, while stone hearths and a large gothic courtyard garden lend a stately tone. Its restaurant, Les Oenophiles, serves inventive dishes – and the wine list is long. Located in the old town, it’s close to the Musee des Beaux-Arts. Doubles from £92 (maisonphilippelebon.com).
■ Hotel des Ducs
CLOSE to the Palace of the Dukes – this hotel is in Dijon’s medieval centre. Its clean, simple rooms have wood accents and crisp linen, but the highlight is its wine-tasting room. Local cheeses, honey and pastries make up a fine continental breakfast. Doubles from £80 (hoteldesducs.com).
■ Vertigo Hotel
THE cool cousin of Dijon’s more traditional digs, this hotel overlooking Place Darcy pairs Haussmann architecture with minimalist interiors – sleek furnishings, Mac minis and Nespresso machines. Its Nuxe Spa has a pool, sauna and hammam. Or borrow an electric BMW or bike for free. Doubles from £104 (vertigohoteldijon.com).
■ Hotel du Palais
THIS boutique charmer in Dijon’s historic centre has just nine rooms, each with quirks like hand-painted ceilings and elegant Burgundy stone staircases. It is intimate, understated and perfectly placed for exploring the sights. The hotelier’s husband does a fantastic wine tasting, too. Doubles from £101 (hoteldupalais-dijon.com).
Where to eat
■ Chez Leon
THIS is the kind of unpretentious, convivial bistro that feels like it’s been around for ever. Stick to the classics: the beef bourguignon and escargots are famed. For dessert, don’t miss the crepes suzette, flambeed tableside. Mains from £14 (restochezleon.fr).
■ Le Bistrot des Halles
OPPOSITE Dijon’s famous Les Halles food market, this brasserie has its pick of ingredients. Try the tarte flambee (a thin Alsatian-style pizza topped with creme fraiche, lardons, and onions) or the saucisson chaud (hot sausage), a Burgundian specialty. Mains from £16.45 (lebistrotdeshalles.fr).
■ La Maison des Cariatides
LA Maison des Cariatides sits pretty in Dijon’s antiques district, its 17thcentury façade adorned with caryatids. Chefs Vincent and Marie Cecile Gomis deliver a seasonal tasting menu that sings Burgundy’s praises. And a spot in the Michelin Guide seals the deal, but do book ahead. Four courses from £67 (maisondescariatides.com).
HOW TO GET THERE
DIJON is 1 hour 40 minutes from Paris by TGV train and tickets cost from £26.50 each way (raileurope.com). London-Paris return trains from £64 (eurostar.com). Drivers can reach the city in about 5.5 hours from Calais. Lyon and Geneva airports connect to Dijon via regional trains.